c. 1960 Dorothee Maurer-Becker Wall-All III

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How To Use Just About Any Hair Product 101

by James Nelson

The biggest reason for disliking any hair product is never being taught how to use it! Too often, products are handed off by stylists, to their guests, with nary a word of proper advise. Consequently, the magic goo, that worked so well in their hands, becomes the nightmare gunk your perplexed with at home.

Here’s the deal: you need to ask for direction if it’s not provided. Don’t turn this into an, I don’t need the map, I know the shortcut: moment in the car situation. You are not going save time or face, and you will be lost. That’s the first step.

Second, master a very simple, generic method of emulsifying most products (from gels to pomades). A small amount of product gets rubbed between the palms of the hands and fingers. Then, using fingers only, begin working product into the thickest and heaviest sections of your hair working from the back, moving forward, is often best. Reload product onto your fingers, from the remainder on your palms, working a judicious amount of product into each successive section of your mop. After applying, punch, mold and command your fro into your preferred architectural likeness.

Different products require individual finessing to determine the right amount to use, but this general method of application will cut down on wasted product and deliver a more consistent result to your look. And all those jars of failed product living under your sink; they just might have a new purpose in your trained hands!

Battling Testosterone Decline: Testosterone Boosting Foods

by Russ Klettke

All that talk about eating right that you’ve heard since second grade misses a Very Important Point. Eat the right foods (and exercise, and don’t drink too much) and you’ll be more of a man. We’re talking about testosterone, which when in decline can negatively affect muscle and bone mass, mood, energy and libido.

Time is inevitable. But there’s no need to help it along.

Eating right to support your man stuff is truly possible. Certain healthy foods with specific nutritional characteristics can stem the natural decline in testosterone levels that come with age. The peak of your testosterone levels is generally thought to occur in the early to mid-20s. But time isn’t an absolute determinant: you can stem the loss with smart nutrition and other lifestyle choices.

A little background: One battle affecting testosterone in a man’s body is estrogen – yup, we all have some of the female hormone in us; women have testosterone too, just in different proportions. Elderly men basically are overcome with estrogen, because in the end that hormone wins out. There’s a metaphor here but it does no good to dwell on it.

Testosterone production is assisted by ingesting a few things, as follows: zinc, cholesterol (yeah, some cholesterol converts to testosterone), fats, indole-3-carbinole and diallyldisulfide (a major volatile sulfur-containing compound in garlic). These testosterone-boosting nutrients are concentrated in certain foods:

Zinc: Oysters, enriched cereals, club soda, table salt, veal, escarole soup, crab, beans, lobster, beef, clams, lamb, endive, game meat (buffalo, deer), chicken heart, pork, bamboo shoots, Italian or Crimini mushrooms.

Cholesterol: Eggs WITH the yolk, cheese, red meat, soybean oil. One or two eggs a day is optimal.

Fats: Monounsaturated, from plant and fish sources, are important to balance against saturated fats, which are abundant in typical Western diets. So every time you have a beef burger, think about having nuts, seeds, olive oil and fish to balance it out elsewhere in the same day.

Indole-3- carbinole: This is a compound in cruciferous vegetables, a family which includes broccoli, cabbage, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, bok choi and kale. Yes, cabbage.

Diallyldisulfide: This is in garlic and onions, the less cooked the better. The Journal of Nutrition reported a study (Yuriko Oi, et al., 2001) that backs this up. This research involved a cohort of rats that were fed beef alone while others received beef with garlic powder. The rats given garlic registered higher testosterone levels. One assumes they were less popular nonetheless because rats are not known to use mouthwash.

But note that too much of these foods, giving you a net-excess of calories beyond what you burn off, deposits fat on the body. Body fat itself produces estrogen, the enemy of cholesterol, and therefore would diminish your gains. Balance, variety and moderation rule once again.

Sharp Sporty Looks For Cool Spring Nights

Traditionally not a fan of Ralph Lauren...however, the Black Label has a lot to offer us. Here are two looks from the Spring 2010 line.

Anti-Ageing - Skin Maintenance Routine Through The Ages

Everyone wants to look young and fit for as long as possible-if not indefinitely (!); but, some of us work harder at it! Hitting the gym and eating smart are the obvious places to begin: few of us follow up with skincare and sun-sense. Let’s take a brief look at three pivotal stages in the time-line of ageing.

In our Twenties, not only do we think and act like we’re indestructible-we ‘seem’ to defy time, partying and sun worship. Our skin bounces back from pretty much everything we do to it, because we’re still producing plenty of natural collogen, elastin and other goodies that give the glow of youth. A prudent approach to ever youthful looks is to begin a simple regime NOW. Opt for a mild cleanser with an exfoliating ‘acid’ component (remember: you’re skin naturally resides slightly on the acidic side of the Ph scale; so, don’t be scared by the word ‘acid’). Religiously moisturize with a light, non-comedogenic product and ALWAYS cover up any exposed skin with sunscreen…always. Ageing is all about genetics, sun exposure, diet , exercise and rest. We can only ‘manage’ the genetics issue, but we have big-time control over the other factors! Do this now, and you’ll extend the years you get carded, when you order that anti-oxidant rich glass of red wine at dinner.

Those of us who basked a little too wantonly in the golden rays by the beach will begin to pay the price in our Thirties. The fine lines become evident around the eyes, age spots may appear, accompanied by broken capillaries, and our once smooth skin becomes more textured. We’re into ‘Damage Control’ now. Our cleanser needs to become more gentle and moisturizing. lightweight , specially formulated eyecream combats crow’s feet, night cream with vitamins helps with texture and firming, and a weekly exfoliating ritual evens the palette, reduces fine line depth and shows off our healthiest skin layer. It’s all about drawing a ‘line’ and holding your looks from crossing over it.

We hit our Forties, and here’s where our efforts show their worth-if we’ve been “keeping up appearances.” (Either that, or we hit the ‘panic button’ full on!) There’s no denying it: we see lines, age spots and a little tug of gravity here and there. We find religion in faithfully cleansing, moisturizing, exfoliating and protecting from the sun. The night cream is never skipped, the gym is a regular date and we supplement with vitamins and a conscientious diet. Don’t forget the water: hydrate!

What you should grasp is that, while the earlier stages of ageing seem to require less effort, it’s about building good habits and sticking to a skin maintainence routine-based on your skin type (oily, dry, et al..) Control the things you can. Start now, no matter where you are in the journey. Like any other muscle or part, your skin needs you to take charge…

Grab it by the horns!

How To Talk To Your Stylist?!

by James Nelson II

The only constant is change, someone wisely observed. Change can be good or bad, especially when it’s about your hair. Guys are more vain about their hair than they’d like to let on; and ,with the slow demise of the Barbershop industry and the rise in men frequenting the Salon, it’s time to consider how to communicate successfully with your stylist.

The first thing to consider is what is commonly referred to as the “consultation.” Most of the time, you walk in or pre-book (pre-booking is always wise, but we’ll discuss that later…) for a 30-45minute men’s cut appointment, you get 2 minutes if you’re lucky to stumble through trying to explain the mythical haircut you’ve always wanted, then wham/bam the scissors are moving and you are left with anything from outright failure, middling success, possibly outright success. You basically feel like you strapped in and waited for the ride to end, often feeling a little powerless to affect the outcome. Here’s how to change that! Most salons will offer a 15 minute consultation in advance of your scheduled appointment, but you have to ASK. Often, these consults are free, as the stylist and salon want to develop business with you.

Taking the time to discuss what you want, look at pictures and -most importantly-listen to what your stylist thinks, will take loads of pressure of everyone concerned. You’ll get a more thorough consult and increase the odds of a favorable cut as a result. Optionally, you could always ask to schedule the extra time on your first appointment, but this won’t allow you to walk away and consider everything discussed before letting the hair fly. Also, you have a chance to decide if the new stylist is the right fit for you, when booking a separate consult.

Seriously consider pre-booking all appointments. Hopefully you get a recommendation for a salon and operator that you can then arrange an appointment with. Walking into a salon and expecting to see a senior stylist that’s booked 6 or more weeks out, is probably going to result in your disappointment. You’ll either remain shaggy, or make a last second appointment with whomever is available, and you’ve just derailed your whole plan of success! Understand, walk-in appointments make salons happy, because they fill the books, and you can get a good style that way…but it’s not part of a carefully considered experience.

Things to remember during your consult…

If you bring pictures, make sure they are representative of your hair texture, thickness, and are good examples of what you would like to achieve. Understand and communicate how much effort you are willing to put into your hair daily. Remember, if your stylist needs a particular product to execute your style, then YOU need that product. Seek out a stylist who really listens to your goals, and clearly communicates back to you a sense of understanding your desired result. Lastly, listen to your stylist when they tell you what is and is not reasonable to achieve and how that needs to happen. Arguing with a stylist is the worst method for success, as you make an adversary of them: if you’ve never had any hairstylist make you happy, maybe it’s not the stylist…be a partner, be excited and interested. Do these things and you will be seen as someone that stylist WANTS to please and work with. Good luck!

Battling Testosterone Decline: Testosterone Boosting Foods

by Russ Klettke

All that talk about eating right that you’ve heard since second grade misses a Very Important Point. Eat the right foods (and exercise, and don’t drink too much) and you’ll be more of a man. We’re talking about testosterone, which when in decline can negatively affect muscle and bone mass, mood, energy and libido.

Time is inevitable. But there’s no need to help it along.

Eating right to support your man stuff is truly possible. Certain healthy foods with specific nutritional characteristics can stem the natural decline in testosterone levels that come with age. The peak of your testosterone levels is generally thought to occur in the early to mid-20s. But time isn’t an absolute determinant: you can stem the loss with smart nutrition and other lifestyle choices.

A little background: One battle affecting testosterone in a man’s body is estrogen – yup, we all have some of the female hormone in us; women have testosterone too, just in different proportions. Elderly men basically are overcome with estrogen, because in the end that hormone wins out. There’s a metaphor here but it does no good to dwell on it.

Testosterone production is assisted by ingesting a few things, as follows: zinc, cholesterol (yeah, some cholesterol converts to testosterone), fats, indole-3-carbinole and diallyldisulfide (a major volatile sulfur-containing compound in garlic). These testosterone-boosting nutrients are concentrated in certain foods:

Zinc: Oysters, enriched cereals, club soda, table salt, veal, escarole soup, crab, beans, lobster, beef, clams, lamb, endive, game meat (buffalo, deer), chicken heart, pork, bamboo shoots, Italian or Crimini mushrooms.

Cholesterol: Eggs WITH the yolk, cheese, red meat, soybean oil. One or two eggs a day is optimal.

Fats: Monounsaturated, from plant and fish sources, are important to balance against saturated fats, which are abundant in typical Western diets. So every time you have a beef burger, think about having nuts, seeds, olive oil and fish to balance it out elsewhere in the same day.

Indole-3- carbinole: This is a compound in cruciferous vegetables, a family which includes broccoli, cabbage, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, bok choi and kale. Yes, cabbage.

Diallyldisulfide: This is in garlic and onions, the less cooked the better. The Journal of Nutrition reported a study (Yuriko Oi, et al., 2001) that backs this up. This research involved a cohort of rats that were fed beef alone while others received beef with garlic powder. The rats given garlic registered higher testosterone levels. One assumes they were less popular nonetheless because rats are not known to use mouthwash.

But note that too much of these foods, giving you a net-excess of calories beyond what you burn off, deposits fat on the body. Body fat itself produces estrogen, the enemy of cholesterol, and therefore would diminish your gains. Balance, variety and moderation rule once again.

Getting Buff: The Full-Body, Time-Efficient Workout That Produces Maximum Results In Less Time.

By Russ Klettke

Do you think spending more time at the gym is going to get you better results? To a point, yes. But past that point you will experience more than the law of diminishing returns (less results per minute). If it leads to a tendency to take longer rest periods between sets, it can actually make the workout less productive.

Scientific study bears this out. Particularly with men, strenuous weight-resistance exercise produces natural hormones that the body uses to build and repair muscles. This leads to both muscle growth and strength increases. Rest-period studies (Rooney 1994; Kraemer 1997; and McCall 1999) show that shorter rest periods, between one and two minutes duration, increase the amount of hormone production (this includes natural testosterone, which aids muscle growth).

But to use your time to even greater efficiency, you might actually use that 60 to 120 second rest period to exercise other parts of your body. For example, on a day when you’re particularly focused on shoulder presses, do one set of eight to 12 repetitions, then jump onto a floor mat to do a set of crunches. Don’t really stop moving through a three-cycle set of these two exercises.

To get even greater results layer on a progression, which is an increase in difficulty in second and third sets, to both exercises. For the shoulder presses, add a few pounds with each set, or slow your repetitions down to increase intensity without adding weight. With the floor crunches, you might put a 5-pound weight in your hands, held around the chest level, then proceed to perform the same number of repetitions.

In some circles, the first exercise is called the “load,” the second the “unload.” Some people actually perform two unloads for every load. In either configuration, always think about completing the unload in about a minute and allow almost no time in between the two exercises.

Here are some combination of load/unload exercises to try in the gym over your next several workouts:

Load – Unload
• Flat bench chest press – calf press
• Incline chest press – Roman chair (secured legs and hips, face down, raise torso and head)
• Tricep press – good morning (core)
• Shoulder press – forearm curls
• Lat pull – side tips (side torso stretch/press)
• Upright rows – Leg abductors
• Chin-ups (biceps) – Walking lunges (no weight)
• Leg extensions (quadriceps) – Side, light DB lifts (all shoulder with locked elbow)
• Leg curls (hamstrings) – Cable chest press (light weight)
• Leg squats – Light chest press

Dries Van Noten...clean lines, sophisticated, modest for the modern man...below are some handsome looks for s/s2010

images from nymag.com

Anti-Aging

Anti-aging is helping the skin regenerate, once it passes its first track of youth. This should begin around age 30, if not earlier! Male skin is thicker (it’s our testosterone) so there are more cells to feed! Using products specifically created for men will get the right ingredients to penetrate our skin. It is important to use the right product, delivering active ingredients; cells need to stay in good shape. If you have a skin care regimen already established, then you have begun the anti-aging process and put the brakes on aging. This regimen should include a daily moisturizer. Moisturizers activate enzymes for skin renewal while shedding dead upper levels.

Getting Buff: If You Want Bigger Arms, Work Your Legs

By Russ Klettke

For every guy who works out, there is a slightly different reason he exercises. It can range from getting in shape for a class reunion or tropical vacation to avoiding heart disease or diabetes. But there is a secret, universal motivator that few will admit to but none can deny: it’s about what you see in the mirror.

I’m not saying everyone is like mirror man. And God bless the guy who monitors his progress with a little, um, confidence. But a certain degree of male vanity is noted throughout the pages of recorded history, and that has only come full flower in the 21st century. Heck, if it motivates a person to pursue better health, what’s the problem?

A predicament occurs when you use a single, face-on mirror. We live in a 360-degree world, so what you’re checking out is not necessarily what the guy to your right or the girl behind you is seeing. So if it’s about appearances, consider all the angles.

A second level of problems arises, physiologically, from the mirror mentality. This is where your body becomes distorted by hard work on the front half, or upper half, of your full physique. For example, it’s when a guy’s shoulders pull forward by his considerably well-developed chest because he fails to work the upper back muscles (rhomboids, traps, posterior deltoids and lats). And then there’s the Mr. Toothpick Legs Syndrome, the guy who obviously skips the lunges, squats, abductors, adductors and calf muscle exercises because he has a crazy focus on his abs, arms, chest and shoulders. He thinks he’s hot at the beach, but keeps his sweat pants on even there.

A third problem from imbalanced exercise contributes to the first two. It’s based in how muscular development in men is assisted by testosterone. This is nature’s own Catch 22: The more muscle you work, and the more strenuously you work it, the more testosterone that is naturally produced. Nature having a sense of humor – or is it cruelty? – the biggest muscles are in the back and legs. So as it turns out, the non-mirror muscles are most crucial to creating testosterone to help you build muscles everywhere else. Bottom line: if you want to build bigger arms, work on your legs.


Working hard by looking back
Maybe it’s time to rethink your own workout. Here are fundamental exercises that every guy should incorporate into his routine to round out his body and kick up his testosterone levels in the process (all at the introductory levels, just to get started).

Legs and glutes
• Bodyweight squats (no weight to start, just get the form right and go slow)
• Walking lunges
• Abductors and adductors (here’s an abductor routine that doesn’t require a machine)

Back muscles
• Rhomboids
• Traps
• Lats

So how do you gauge your progress if you can’t see it? Get one of those tri-fold affairs like they have in a men’s suit department store – or ask the girl walking behind you.

Battling Testosterone Decline: Should you consider synthetic testosterone replacement drugs?

by Russ Klettke

After a decade of erectile dysfunction pharmaceuticals – which collectively had worldwide sales of more than $2.7 billion last year – the next frontier is testosterone replacement therapy. Why? A guy’s gotta be a guy, and when “T” levels go into decline, it can be a pretty disconcerting situation.

The fact of the matter is that testosterone in the general male population naturally declines after age 25. But what makes it worse is modern lifestyles. Alcohol, fatty food and inactivity make that decline worse. It can be described as a circular, negative loop cycle: as T levels decline, energy, mood and libido suffer. With less energy, you might work out less. No exercise means no endorphin hormones to lift your mood, so you might eat and drink more to get some kind of kicks. With weight gain, you lose your mojo and with lower testosterone your libido only goes further south. Viagra might help a bit, but if you aren’t really all that fired up an erection is like a snow shovel in Miami: you got it, you just have little interest in using it.

So will testosterone replacement therapy reverse this death spiral and get you back in the game? Yes…but. Doctors are able to prescribe it to just about anyone who reports low testosterone symptoms (appropriately confirmed with a proper blood serum test). But as with most medications, particularly those that trick the endocrine system (your hormones), there can be side effects:

• Acne
• Hair loss
• Sleep apnea
• Hemoglobin increase (polycythemia, good at a moderate level but bad when too high)
• Fluid retention
• Breast enlargement and tenderness
• Liver toxicity (bad if you have had hepatitis or take other medications that have an adverse effects on the liver)
• Enlarged prostate

Most ominously, there are no studies on the effects of testosterone therapy over time. According to Michael Werner, MD a Purchase, NY board-certified urologist who studies male sexual dysfunction, “it may promote the growth of cancerous prostate cells…the second most common cause of cancer deaths in older men.” Further, he warms that “long-term data is as yet not available” with regard to negative side effects of T therapy.

There are other ways to improve testosterone levels other than a pharmaceutical product. Yup, you guessed it: smart diet, exercise and other lifestyle choices (moderate alcohol, no tobacco and smart sleep habits). We’ll cover those in the next series of blogs.

Get Rid Of Those Dead Skin Cells - Keep The Surface Clean - Exfoliate!

Most of us don’t have soft -as-a-baby’s-butt skin, and would benefit from a quick way to get rid of dead skin cells that build up on the surface of our skin. It’s not just about brighter, fresher looking skin either: we can create clearer pores and reduce ingrown hairs (often caused by shaving) by doing a little periodic exfoliation.

Exfoliates fall under two general categories, with practically endless choices to be found under either type. The first types are mechanical, which include scrubs and some tools used by your pedicurist. The second types are chemical and are generally some type of topical, acid based product. We’ll talk about each type, so you can decide what’s for you.

Scrubs are the most common example of mechanical exfoliates. They contain tiny granules that, when rubbed gently into the skin, dislodge and lift away dull, dead cells. Use facial exfoliates once weekly, in place of cleanser. Keep in mind, you don’t have to be as gentle on your hands, feet and legs; so, choose a scrub with heftier granules for those jobs!

Chemical exfoliates are usually reserved for the face only, and come in various potencies: both over the counter, and by prescription through licensed professionals. We’re mostly concerned with what’s readily available to you over the counter. These products are usually some form of Alpha Hydroxy, Salicylic and or Glycolic acid based. They come in creams and liquids, and each is used slightly different from one another. Creams are generally applied to facial skin, avoiding the eye area, and allowed to activate from 5-10 minutes. Some liquids are swabbed on with a cotton ball. Find the product that is suited to your skin type and create a weekly routine, customized for you.

Glycolic peels and micro-dermabrasion are specialty services available through trained and licensed professionals. These options take your weekly regime to new levels. Don’t overdue these services and only deal with reputable professionals. Remember, the idea
is to periodically exfoliate, not excavate!

Basically, you want to be cleansing six out of seven days; then, exfoliating in place of cleanser on the seventh day. That’s right, skip the cleanser when you exfoliate, and follow with quality eye-cream and moisturizer formulated for the face. Oh, and consider a specialty firming serum if you want to combat fine lines.

Get going, and groom!

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Battling Ingrown Hairs...

One of the most annoying skin experiences for men are the lumps and bumps caused by hair that gets trapped beneath the skin’s surface, as an un-sightly result of shaving and some natural conditions of hair growth. Ingrowns caused by shaving happen especially when we get a good close shave, creating sharp spears out of our beard hair. These bad boys are perfectly engineered to imbed in the skin as they continue growing. Unfortunately, some men also have the additional challenge of hair growing at an acute slant to the skin surface, making it double likely that imbedding will occur: this is especially true of curly hair! Once imbedded, the skin of our body will quickly react to what it considers a foreign body by becoming inflamed-aka razor burn.

It’s recommended to follow the essential steps of shaving (see related article), especially shaving with your growth pattern, not against it! Topical crèmes/lotions designed specifically to encourage healthy skin turnover and reduce inflammation will speed healing and reduce adverse reactions to shaving. A once a week ritual of exfoliation and a daily regime of appropriate to skin type moisturizer will ensure long-term satisfaction of your smooth look. Face it: the goal is suave look, not ‘barber of ceville’ gone amuck! A little care goes a long way: don’t skip it!

Pluck Away...

If there is one thing that can make a guy feel uneasy and out of his depth, then it’s the thought of getting an eyebrow wax! It’s time to get over the grooming fear, and we’ve got just the advice you need!

Essentially, what every guy is wary of, is ending up looking like they just got their sister’s eyebrows…but it doesn’t have to be that way. The key is finding a brow technician (waxer, esthetician, et…) who understands how to remove only enough to separate, tame and sculpt. The idea is to go from Unibrow to Noble-brows!

Face it, men: nobody wants to date Cyclops! Nothing opens up the face and eyes better than a well shaped, neatly trimmed pair of eyebrows. Trust us, you won’t lose your masculinity; but, you will come off groomed and good looking. Don’t be surprised if it gives you back ten years in the process!

Remember, the key is finding a skilled and experienced technician who understands you want to look good, not feminine. Ask for just a simple cleaning up above and below the brows, and to create a clean, natural separation between your brows. Key words like “clean, neaten, natural and define” will help you confidently communicate what your going for.

Go forth and groom!

Spotty Back/Acne

The back is probably the hardest area to wash. The solution to solving back acne is to scrub the area religiously with an antibacterial product. You may need an extra hand to properly wash the back. If the daily wash/scrub is not working, you may need to treat yourself to an occasional back treatment at a local spa for exfoliation and extraction of infected areas.

Hands and Gnarly Feet - get rid of them!

Taking care of your self includes taking care of your hands and feet. Manicures and Pedicures will complete your well-groomed look. To keep it masculine, have your nails trimmed to an appropriate length with a buff finish that will provide an understated effect. Your hands should be moisturized daily to avoid splitting nails and hangnails.

Guys who regularly play sports, walk a lot, or hike, etc., should have pedicures to prevent unnecessary pain with ingrown toenails. Having the toenails clipped properly will help avoid ingrown toenails. Cutting your nails too short, thinking it will last longer, is not a solution either. This can cause you to cut in to the skin. Our feet also require exfoliating to get rid of the dead dry skin. Exfoliating can be done with a salt scrub and pumice stone. Finish off with a moisturizer. If it leaves your feet feeling greasy, or causes your feet to sweat, choose a moisturizer that is right for your skin type. Applying moisturizer just before bedtime is another helpful solution.

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